How to make Customizable Dream PC Step by Step😎😎

Finally you are here, Nice to see you again my friends

Today you are going learn an wonderful thing, here is my dream PC which has custom moveable things, basically we got bored about regular PC design but here I designed an awesome fresh new look PC that will make you surprise 😉

If you are looking for a cool designed PC, You are at right Place

Okay my friends let’s start from the beginning

All the 3D files are ready to print, Just Click the download Button..


All the dimensions are here, you can follow the photos to make the markings.

Here is the MDF board, Whose dimensions is provided above
Now we are going to mark on MDF board according to the dimensions
Now follow the video procedure and cut the MDF board

Now make all the holes according to your screw sizes and cables, you may need extra holes for hiding all the cables
Use sand paper to gain the surface smoothness

here are two kinds of USB extension, first one has two USB ports and One SD Card slot
and Second one has four USB ports,You can use it according to your basic needs.

We Need three 180 degrees servos but the head servo must be powerful, if you will use low quality servo then it will not move up due to the heavy load of head mechanism.

High Quality 20kg Servo

Specifications:

*Stall torque (6v): 20. 32 Kg-cm (281. 89 Oz/in)
*Maximum angle: 90°
*Gear: metal
*Dimensions: 40. 5X20. 2X38mm /1. 59 X0. 80X49 in
*Weight: 55. 6 G (1. 96Oz)

All the mounts and parts are made by 3D printer
We have already printed the PC Base stand, you had already downloaded it from the beginning
you have to follow the following steps according to the video

Here is WD 2TB HDD, We have to mount this one onto our base
This 3D printed mounts are going to hold our HDD

3D printed arms, which will move the Side Glass Panel
Now we have to prepare the arm mechanism, you need to just follow the procedure

We have Lattepanda alpha and Raspberry pi4 8GB
both boards are powerful enough, but Lattepanda has Stable Win10 OS
so we are gonna use the Lattepanda in our project

You can also use Raspberry pi 4

Lattepanda Specification:
*CPU: Intel Core m3-8100y
*Core: 1.1-3.4GHz Dual-Core,Four-Thread
*Benchmark (PassMark): Up to 4128, double computing power compared with same price range products in the market
*Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 615, 300-900MHz
*RAM: 8GB LPDDR3
*External Memory:
1x M.2 M Key, PCIe 4x, Supports NVMe SSD and SATA SSD
1x M.2 E Key, PCIe 2x,Supports USB2.0, UART, PCM
*Connectivity:
WIFI 802.11 AC, 2.4G & 5G
Dual-Band Bluetooth 4.2
Gigabit Ethernet
*USB Ports:
3x USB 3.0 Type A
1x USB Type C, supports PD, DP, USB 3.0
*Display:
HDMI Output
Type-C DP Support
Extendable eDP touch displays
*Co-processor: Arduino Leonardo
*GPIO & Other Features: 2x 50p GPIOs including I2C, I2S, USB, RS232, UART, RTC,Power Management, *Extendable power button,everything you need
*OS Support:

Windows 10 Pro
Linux Ubuntu

*Dimension: 115mm * 78mm * 14 mm

this is a cute antenna and Connecting Cable
You can use any kind of antennas but I recommend you to use MHF4 ipex type connecting cable only
we have to connect the cable to the WiFi and Bluetooth module on the board

Here are the jumper wires, You need to connect
all the cables to the Lattepanda signal pins

Grey color wire will be on S4 Hibernation signal pin
White color to the SW pin and the other two must be grounded

Here is HP DVD drive, We are going to use it in Dream PC,
which will look cool

This is an USB cable which comes with this DVD drive
but this is so much bulky and inappropriate for our project
So I already made a appropriate cable, just follow the image to make your own.

Here is the specifications of the power Adapter

Item- AC/DC Wall Adapter Charger PD45 QC3.0 power adapter with type c
Cable- H05vv-f 3*0.75mm2
Conductor- Bare copper,or CCS/CCA for economic choice
Plug- Euro 2/3 pin plug, SAA plug, UK plug, USA plug, Italy plug, South Africa plug optional
End type- type c
Input- 100~240V, 50/60Hz, 1A
Output- 5V 3A/9V 3A/12V 3A/15V 3A/20V 2.25A
Length- 1m, 2m, 3m, 1ft, 6ft, and customized
Color- Black & White

If you want to add External power source for Lattepanda alpha just follow the images and power ratings.

JST 4p DC Input Connector
The voltage range of the Alpha power input connector is 11~15 volts. So if you’re choosing the li-po battery, it should be 3~4 cells. The standard power source is 3A @ 12 volts. The booting power is about 10 watts and operating power is about 5 watts with a limited electrical load.

Input Specifications:

*11-15 volts
*Up to 36 watts is recommended
*Standard power – 3A @ 12 volts
*JST PH2.0 – 4p connector (pin mapping is marked on the board, as well: — DC ++, which means two negative pins and two positive pins)

For more details please visit this website..

now connect the HDMI and Power adapter to the board

This is a power converter, which will run the peripherals

DC-DC Digital Step Down Converter Module LM2596 Digital with LED Voltmeter

Specifications:

*Input Voltage: 4.0 – 40V (Input voltage must be higher than the output voltage by 1.5V or more)
*Output Voltage Range: 1.25V – 37V adjustable
*Maximum Output Current – 3A, Recommended use within 2.0A, For high current, need to install heat sink
*Maximum Output Power – 20W
*High Conversion Efficiency > 88%, Comes with reverse polarity protection.

this is our 3rd servo motor, which will used to run the PC head

this is a thermaltake cooling fan, which will cool the CPU,
its power input is 12V

Specification:
*[Support 5V RGB sync enabled motherboards] – Sync with 5V RGB enabled motherboards from as US, ASROCK Gigabyte and MSI to customize lighting effect
*[Build-in ARGB LED] – 15 High lumen addressable LEDs with 16 8 million colors
*[Reliable hydraulic Bearing] – self-lubricated Bearing and friction-reducied substance lowers operation noise and enhance thermal efficiency

here is side panel(3mm Acrylic sheet), We already attach all the 3D printed arms on it
Now we have to attach this panel to the PC

The most attractive and creative part, the air outlet fins

this is most hardworking part of the PC, Align all the parts and fix it to the back side of PC
you can rotate the fins maximum 60 degrees, Before you connect the parts with the servo, must run the servo once, otherwise wrong direction or high jerk will brake the fins.
Now connect the servo to the fins carefully

Now it is the time to prepare the PC head


Follow the image to mark and cut the MDF board and prepare all the parts step by step..

it’s time to make the Circuit

We need Zero PCB

Relay module

Arduino Nano

7806 Transistor

Male and female headers

BC547 NPN transistor

Lots of resistors

Now arrange all the parts on the Zero PCB

solder them one by one according to the circuit Diagram

you can see the circuit is ready
before we are going to use it, I will tell you the working mechanism
So basically the 12V power will run through the relay
but without any signal, relay will cut the flow of current
When Lattepanda will turn on it will pass a signal through the S4 pin, the signal which we get is positive but we needed negative signal to run the Relay
So I place a NPN transistor which will work as a not gate ,means the S4 signal will inverse in negative and which goes to the relay module, it will run the relay and pass the 12V to the circuit
12V Run the 7805, CPU Cooling Fan and power converter
which also convert it through the converter as 6V and it will run the Arduino
and the servos parallelly

This is the whole mechanism

Now make all the connections according to the diagram

Here are buttons to control all the parts

we need to solder all the one side pin into one and
later it will connect to the Arduino 5V pin

now solder second pins according to the circuit

It’s time to Program

Required Software-
*PC Software- ARDUINO IDE
*Smart phone app- ARDUINO DROID

Arduino CODE

#include<Servo.h>

//This code is written by TecH BoyS ToyS

int pos = 0;

Servo chintu;
Servo pandey;
Servo abhijeet;


void setup() {
  pinMode(2, INPUT);
  pinMode(7, INPUT);
  pinMode(8, INPUT);
  pinMode(9, INPUT);
  pinMode(10, INPUT);
  pinMode(11, INPUT);
  pinMode(12, INPUT);
  pinMode(4, INPUT);
  
  chintu.attach(6);
  chintu.write(0);
  pandey.attach(5);
  pandey.write(0);
  abhijeet.attach(3);
  abhijeet.write(0);
}
void loop() {

  if (digitalRead(4) == HIGH) {
    chintu.attach(6);
    pandey.attach(5);
    abhijeet.attach(3);
  }

  while (digitalRead(7) == HIGH && pos < 60) {
    pos++;
    chintu.write(pos);
    delay(20);

  }
  while (digitalRead(10) == HIGH && pos > 0) {
    pos--;
    chintu.write(pos);
    delay(20);
  }
  while (digitalRead(8) == HIGH && pos < 120) {
    pos++;
    pandey.write(pos);
    delay(20);

  }
  while (digitalRead(11) == HIGH && pos > 0) {
    pos--;
    pandey.write(pos);
    delay(20);
  }
  while (digitalRead(9) == HIGH && pos < 102) {
    pos++;
    abhijeet.write(pos);
    delay(20);

  }
  while (digitalRead(12) == HIGH && pos > 0) {
    pos--;
    abhijeet.write(pos);
    delay(20);
  }
  if (digitalRead(2) == HIGH) {
    chintu.detach();
    pandey.detach();
    abhijeet.detach();
  }
}

Finally we completed our Dream Project
Now we are going to test it, how it will work

when head will move up the DVD drive will move out
When the Side glass will move out, we can remove all the internal components easily
And the cute fins, When it is open then the hot air will be pass out
and when we close it, the dust is restricted to enter into the PC

All this buttons will run the servos

First button move the head up and second one move downward
3rd button move out the Side glass and fourth button move inward
fifth button is used to open the outlet fins and sixth will close it
Now there is two button left
First will detach the the servo from the Arduino and the another one will attach it again
If you run your machine long time, just detach the servo to save the servo generating heat

Thank you so much for visiting us😍😍..Stay with us🥰🥰

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